A stylish new Korean-French
restaurant in Cary’s Maynard Crossing offers innovative cuisine in a tranquil
setting. KoMo KoMo, which derives its name from the words “Korean mosaic,”
opened in November 2011 and has steadily built a loyal following ever since.
Chef-owner Jae Lee is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and honed
his skills at several fine-dining establishments in New York and the Triangle
area (the Washington Duke Inn and Fins, to name a few). While Lee directs the
kitchen, his wife, El Ryoo, capably oversees the front-of-house operations.
Charmingly appointed with framed
quilts, vintage pottery and understated florae, KoMo KoMo’s cozy dining room
beckons patrons to relax and enjoy a serene dining experience. The soothing
music wafting overhead only enhances an already delightful ambiance.
KoMo KoMo represents the antithesis
of the typical strip-mall-situated Asian eatery. No doubt Lee and Ryoo bring a
keen sense of attention to detail. Impressively, Ryoo handled all interior
decorating herself, including an eye-catching stenciled tree on one of the
dining room walls.
Décor notwithstanding, nowhere is
fine-tuned precision more evident than with the food. Need proof? Look no
further than artfully presented appetizers like pan-seared scallops with wild
mushroom and chive potato puree or chicken dumplings with soy sesame sauce.
Indeed the menu offerings are
interesting — if not ambitious.
Dinner entrees, which start at $12, represent
French- and Korean-infused selections alike. Aficionados of bouillabaisse (a
traditional Provençal seafood stew) will find much to like about KoMo KoMo’s
rendition. The same goes for Korean specialty bulgogi ssam, which essentially
comprises lettuce leaf wraps with marinated beef.
Another signature main course is
bibimbap, a bowl-style meal featuring multigrain rice mixed with various
vegetables and, if desired, pork, beef or tofu. Other solid dishes at
dinnertime include skewered grilled chicken and mushrooms with mint-enhanced
couscous and yogurt sauce, and Atlantic salmon with fava beans, radish and
lemon fennel citronette.
At lunchtime, tempting specials such
as the Meyer lemon organic chicken roll with artisan salad or combo meal
including half a sandwich, soup and a salad come in under $10. The rich lobster
ravioli with ginger and fennel also merits consideration.
A reservation-only tea service is
available on Wednesdays from 2:30-3:30 p.m., featuring a platter of
mini-sandwiches, tarts and desserts with coffee or tea. Free Wi-Fi Internet
access is an added bonus.
When it comes to desserts, you can’t
go wrong with the house-favorite ginger lemongrass creme brulee, coconut rum
raisin bread pudding or the KoMo red velvet cake.
Open six days a week for lunch and
dinner, KoMo KoMo is closed on Sunday. Reservations are strongly recommended
for groups larger than four people.