Super Wok Mostly Satisfies

Cary’s Super Wok Chinese restaurant has been on my must-visit list ever since esteemed food critic Greg Cox of The News & Observer gave it a four-star rating and ranked it “Best in Class” for 2011. After eating there today, I will say that the food lives up the hype, but the atmosphere and service leave something to be desired.

Bento-box style lunchtime specials are attractive at just $6.25, and that includes iced tea. A wide array of “American menu” offerings range from Chicken Pad Thai and Mongolian beef to Hunan tofu with vegetables and stir-fried string beans. As designated on the menu, the tri-pepper chicken was piquant and contained more residual warmth than an infrared heater.  Still, I enjoyed it.

When it comes to authentic Chinese fare, Super Wok offers up an extensive selection of legit options like the fish-head and tofu hotpot, fried whole fish in Sichuan spicy sauce and pork tripe with pickled vegetable. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you can always try the stir-fried intestine with ginger & scallion or the steamed eel with black beans.

Super Wok’s décor is typical of most strip-mall situated Chinese establishments, only more unpretentious. Vinyl flooring, Formica-type tabletops and fluorescent lights provide a trifecta for lame ambiance.  Service during my visit was spotty (for example: my tea glass remained empty for nearly 10 minutes) and lacked warmth and enthusiasm. But perhaps the waitress was overwhelmed by the busload (literally) of Asian customers that arrived just after my food hit the table.

Super Wok was good enough to warrant return visits, but it won’t be a go-to destination for me like Tangerine Café or Ginger Asian Cuisine.